Oscars 101: Best Costume Design

In which I run down on the nominees (and likely winners) of the Academy Awards.

Since we've already covered Best Visual Effects and Best Makeup and Hairstyling, I figured that it was time to keep up the visual motiff of these posts.  That being said, here are the nominees for Best Costume Design:

The Grand Budapest Hotel
Inherent Vice
Into the Woods
Maleficent
Mr. Turner

One thing that honestly surprised me about the nominees for this category, although it honestly shouldn't have, was the absence of Captain America: The Winter Soldier.  I understand that so-called "genre" movies are universally slighted by the Academy, but the technical categories is where they have traditionally gotten their due.  Hell, between Into the Woods and Maleficent there are already two fantasy films being recognized, so is it really that much of a stretch to give it to a superhero film, especially one that so radically and effectively redesigned its titular character's outfit?  They took his star-spangled getup from the first film and made it sleek, dark and covert while still remaining true to the visual core of the original.

The Grand Budapest Hotel - Wes Anderson's latest film is in every way a visual masterpiece.  His exquisite use of colors and staging makes it look in every sense like a cinematic pop-up book: with new layers and images unfolding before your eyes in every scene.  This is owed in no small part to its impeccable costuming.

Ralph Fiennes' concierge uniform boldly pops against the dark browns, tans and whites (and even the occasionally opulent reds) that typify the domestic spheres in which he finds himself throughout the majority of the film.  Zero's lobby boy uniform does likewise.  And since the film largely concerns itself with the upper social spheres, all manner of grandiose and exotic attire is paraded throughout the film - in varying styles and levels of decadence.  The magnificent details of these costumes is only matched by the sheer multitude of them that exist within the film.

Inherent Vice - This film definitely strikes me as the weakest of the five nominees - so much so that I wonder exactly why it was chosen for this category in the first place.  There always seems to be one mundane entry in the field every year: that movie that seems so ordinary and unexceptional that it can't help but stick out like a sore thumb against the increasing extravagence of its competition.  How this beat out other worthy candidates (such as the aforementioned Captain America: The Winter Soldier) I'll never know.

That being said, there's really not all that much to talk about when it comes to the costuming of this film.  The actors all wear clothes at one point or another and they generally fit that person's tastes, means and station.  The blue jean jacket covering the blue turtleneck (pictured above) is kind of cool, but is "kind of cool" really enough to win the day?

Into the Woods - Although generally excellent throughout, I can't help but feel that Into the Woods was nominated for one particular character's wardrobe.  Meryl Streep's excellent turn as The Witch is matched only by the way in which the film attires her.  Her old crone's costume is the apotheosis of witch's robes - dark, frayed and with just the subtlest flair around the shoulders - and her youthful self's dress is the most singularly eye-catching piece of clothing in any film last year.  Seriously, look at it: delicate, organic-looking ruffles, plunging (yet tasteful) neckline and an overall striated texture reminiscent of the woods in which she dwells.

But despite this singularly eye-catching pair of outfits, the remaining characters all have fittingly splendorous costumes of their own.  In particular, the two princes' outfits find the perfect balance between historical fashion and modern aesthetics: simultaneously appearing to be both ancient and modern.  Cinderella's ball gown is likewise gorgeous, blending greens and golds into a singularly majestic look that is never-the-less within the borders of modernity.

Maleficent - This film in every way seems to be playing second fiddle to Into the Woods.  Although the costumes are distinct from its fantastical cousin, they are perhaps a little too close for Maleficent to really distinguish itself amid its competition.  Likewise, although Maleficient's costumes are in every sense of the word excellent, they fail to beat out the more varied, more detailed and more impressive costumes from Into the Woods.

And whereas Into the Woods had more than just The Witch's costume to fall back on, I feel that Maleficent's iconic robes are really the only impressive wardrobe selection that the film has to show off.  Sure, the other costumes are functional and fitting, but none of them have the same kind of wow factor.  At best, Maleficent will fail to garner much support in terms of votes, and at worst it will split Into the Woods' appeal and ensure that neither film will have the requisite votes to win.

Mr. Turner - It's no wonder why the Academy loves historical films for costuming and set design nomination.  They are so singularly removed from modern  fashions that they have an instantly exotic appeal.  What's more, fashions of the past were generally more intricately complicated and visually striking than those of the present, making them truly impressive productions are a purely visual level.

In that regard, Mr. Turner is an excellent entry into the field, sporting excessive buttons, poofy sleeves and the criminally underrated ascot.  And, like The Grand Budapest Hotel, it features a large enough cast of characters with a wide enough array of garments to truly impress the costuming branch on the shear scale of its wardrobe.

Safe Bet:  The Grand Budapest Hotel

Long Shot: Mr. Turner

Longer Shot: Into the Woods

If you liked what you read, please share this post on social media and subscribe to this blog in order to keep up with the latest posts.  Ask questions or share your thoughts in the comments section below.